Home | 20something cupcakes

{bakery-style} fruit tart.

February 6, 2011 in Sweets + Treats with 1 Comment

A fabulous tart made with fresh fruit and pastry cream is one of the first things I think of when I imagine a pâtisserie in France.

{pâtisserie: French pastry shop or bakery}

There is just something about that rich, vanilla custard coupled with the sweetness and tang from the fresh fruits that pushes this beautiful dessert over the edge for me. Whether in Europe or here in the US, these tarts are widely available. And whenever I see one sitting in one of those shiny display cases, I have a hard time passing it up. I find that they typically don’t vary much in quality, and by making one myself, I discovered it’s probably because this classic French dessert is so surprisingly simple to execute.

Tart shell, pastry cream, fresh fruit. Simple enough, right? The only tricky area here is – as always – the tart shell. I have had many issues with tart shells, and I think most people who’ve taken to making tarts often will agree. From shrunken walls to burnt ones, there are many ways in which the crust can go wrong. I made the mistake of using the tart recipe from the original below, but I wouldn’t recommend it to you. Sorry, Ina! Instead, I included a link to Smitten Kitchen’s recipe for Deb’s “great unshrinkable tart shell” – which is, pretty much, the discovery of a lifetime.

I have to laugh at myself sometimes because I when I first saw where this tart shell was headed, I was so dramatic. This tart sucks! It’s going right in the garbage! And, of course, it was Daniel who told me that it would be fine, it always is – and I better not throw that tart away because he had already made plans to eat it.

Well, wouldn’t you know it: Daniel was right. The tart, though with its imperfect crust, was still perfectly beautiful – and most importantly, it tasted just as I remembered.

Fresh Fruit Tart

Adapted from Ina Garten, via Oprah.com

1 baked Sweet Tart Shell, recipe here or use your own
3 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature
6 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon cognac or brandy
Fresh fruits of your choice {I used 4 kiwis, a handful of raspberries, and a few blueberries}

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat egg yolks and sugar on medium-high speed about 3 minutes, until mixture is light yellow and falls back into bowl in a ribbon. On low speed, beat in cornstarch.

In a large saucepan, bring milk to a simmer. Slowly pour milk into egg mixture, whisking steadily, then pour back into saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon until mixture is thick, about 4 minutes. Bring to a boil and cook on low heat 2 to 3 more minutes. (Taste to be sure cornstarch is cooked.) Remove from heat; mix in butter, vanilla, cream and cognac.

Pour custard through a strainer into a bowl. Place plastic wrap directly onto custard and refrigerate until cold. While custard is cooling, prep your fruit. Smaller berries can be left whole; larger fruits like kiwi should be sliced.

Place baked tart shell on a serving plate and spread cooled pastry cream over bottom of shell. Place fruit on top of custard in any pattern you desire, and serve.

Note: Traditionally, a fruit tart may be glazed with some type of fruit preserve at the end. If you want to go this route, simply melt your jam/jelly in a small saucepan over low heat and brush it over the fruit at the end. Apricot is common, though I might like to try a blackberry if I were to do it.

pan bagnat.

February 3, 2011 in Obsessed with 5 Comments

My first thought as I bit into this beautiful sandwich?

Oh. My. God.

I am in love with this sandwich. I could eat it every day. Or, at least, every weekend.

There’s something very special about pan bagnat. First of all, it’s a salade Niçoise sandwiched between two halves of a French loaf. How can you go wrong? You’ve heard it before – it’s my absolute favorite salad, and though you can make one in any number of ways, here I opted to take the classic approach.

The sandwich gets its name from “pan banhat,” which means “wet bread” in the Provençal dialect spoken in and around Nice. The bread is wet because the salad is doused in any combination of olive oil, lemon juice, and vinegar before it is placed in the bread. The bread then soaks in all of the moisture, swelling up with all of those delicious flavors. Lastly, the sandwich is pressed, causing all of those salty, briney, and undeniably fresh flavors to meld together one last time.

I took a few liberties with the recipe I used below, and you can feel free to do the same. That’s what I love about this sandwich: It can be tweaked endless ways. You could use arugula leaves instead of the basil – though I don’t know if I’d recommend it, as I really loved the basil – and many opt to add bell pepper.

It’s light, yet totally satisfying – and quite elegant, as far as sandwiches are concerned. I can’t wait to re-create this masterpiece of Provençal flavors all summer long.

Bottle of preferred rosé NOT optional.

Pan Bagnat

Adapted from Bon Appétit

1 1-pound loaf French bread, unsliced {either a long one, or you could use a circular French boule – though you may need two depending on how big they are}
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup basil leaves, plus sprigs for garnish
2 6-ounce cans tuna packed in olive oil, undrained
3/4 cup cherry tomatoes, chopped
2/3 cup coarsely chopped pitted assorted brine-cured olives {I used tiny Niçoise olives and left them whole}
1/2 cup chopped red onion
Juice from half a lemon
Splash red wine vinegar
2-3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced

Slice bread in half lengthwise. Using hands, remove interior of loaf – just like “scooping” a bagel. Brush interior of both halves with olive oil and line with basil leaves.

Combine undrained tuna, tomatoes, olives, onion, lemon juice, and vinegar in a bowl to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon mixture evenly into bottom bread shell. Top mixture with eggs, cover with top half of bread and wrap tightly with plastic. Top the sandwich with a heavy baking pan and place heavy cans inside to weigh it down. Let stand at least 20 minutes.

Unwrap pan bagnat and cut into slices. Place on platter, garnish with basil sprigs, and serve.

february in france.

February 1, 2011 in Uncategorized with 4 Comments

Bienvenue en France!

It’s no secret that France is one of my favorite places on Earth, particularly Paris. I love everything about it: the language, the architecture, the fashion, the people – and most importantly, the food.

If I had my way, I would live in France for at least some period of time in my life. I am so inspired by the stories of women like Julia Child who’ve taken the opportunity of a lifetime to move to France and attend culinary school. I picture those fabulous Parisian markets and imagine myself walking among them, grabbing whatever catches my eye and then taking it up to my magnificent – however quaint, it would be unquestionably magnificent – apartment in the 1st or 2nd arrondisement. Any arrondisement. There, I would cook from the heart – no recipes needed. Well, perhaps I’d allow myself a peak at yesterday’s lesson à Le Cordon Bleu.

The only rule to follow? Enjoy. All of it.

I would sit, and relax, and savor every bite. I would enjoy my glass of wine, enjoy the food I prepared for myself. I would certainly enjoy the cheese.

This recurring dream of mine exemplifies what I love most about France: the way of life.

And this, my dears, is why I am devoting the month of February to everything French. Join me as I cook my way through all (well, maybe not all, but many!) of the deliciously French recipes I’ve been dying to try.

Here are a few of the recipes on my agenda (subject to change, of course!) thus far:

Pissaladière
Tarte Tatin
Roast Duck or Duck a l’Orange
Scallops Provençal
Gourgères
Croque Monsieur
Croissants
Bouillabaisse
Crème Brûlée
Quiche Lorraine
French Onion Soup

Looks like I have a lot of cooking to do! Anything you’d like to add to the list?

And because it’s the whole way of life I’m so addicted to, I will try to interject interesting tidbits about French culture and living as we go. Tips from “French Women Don’t Get Fat,” anyone? And who wants to know more about French wines?

À bientôt, mes chéries!

{See you soon, my darlings}

curried lentil soup.

January 27, 2011 in Healthy Eats with 0 Comments

If the idea of a hot bowl of soup isn’t enough to warm you up through these cold winter days – well, I don’t know what to tell you. Other than: I hope you have access to lentils and curry.

Because this isn’t just any hot bowl of soup. This is a hot bowl of soup. Sometimes heat by temperature just isn’t enough; whether you’re snowed in upstate, or donning gloves because we’re currently facing temperatures below – wait for it! – 60 degrees in South Florida – this soup is here to save the day.

I’d been waiting for the right time to use my precious glass jar of curry, picked up from Whole Foods one day on a whim, and after listening to (or reading, rather – though Molly does have that ability to make her words come alive through the pages) Molly Wizenberg wax poetic on this beautiful soup, I knew this was the time. I’d never cooked with curry, or lentils for that matter, and this soup seemed to be the perfect first dance. I was right, because I quickly fell in love with the perfectly spicy Indian condiment; I learned that adding heat to a dish doesn’t have to overpower or scold the tongue. You will feel warmer when you eat this soup, but not uncomfortably so.

I’m also a new-found fan of the lentil, in all of its health-packed, protein-filled glory. The lentil cooks faster than other beans, making it a wiser choice for a weeknight meal. The addition of pureéd chickpeas toward the end makes for a thicker, creamier soup, and the lemon juice adds a subtle brightness – complemented, not overpowered by the curry. It’s a simple meal, but it feels special, especially if you opt to serve some warmed Naan on the side (the storebought version is as far as I’ve gotten, though I do intend to make it myself at some point).

Curried Lentil Soup

Recipe by Molly Wizenberg, via Bon Appétit

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped, divided
2 tablespoons (or more) curry powder {I probably used closer to 3}
1 cup French green lentils {I couldn’t find these and used regular green lentils}
4 1/4 cups (or more) water, divided
1 15- to 16-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons butter
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 lemon, cut into 6 wedges

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and carrot; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until onion is translucent, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Add half of chopped garlic; stir until vegetables are soft but not brown, about 4 minutes longer. Add 2 tablespoons curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add lentils and 4 cups water. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Increase heat and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, pureé chickpeas, lemon juice, 1/4 cup water, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and remaining garlic in processor. Add chickpea pureé and butter to lentil soup. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and additional curry powder, if desired. Add water by 1/4 cupfuls to thin to desired consistency.

Divide soup among bowls. Sprinkle with thinly sliced green onions and serve with lemon wedges.

beef bourguignon.

January 24, 2011 in Main Dishes with 1 Comment

If you know anything about Julia Child, chances are you’ve heard of this recipe. Whether by way of the adorable girlie/foodie memoir Julie and Julia or simply a natural affinity for cooking à la français, this dish is a classic in its own right – and definitely one to try at home, if you haven’t already.

You’ll be surprised at how easy this dish is to pull off – especially if you start with Ina Garten’s version like I did. I compared it to Julia Child’s original recipe and found them to be basically similar, though Julia’s version does involve quite a few more steps. When I make the original, which I plan on doing soon, I’ll be sure to compare the details and the results. One of the differences I noticed was that after browning the meat, Julia puts it back into the pot with the cooked bacon and a bit of flour, in an effort to make the crust even thicker and more delicious – definitely looking forward to that!

Another difference between the two is the way in which the dish is served. While Julia says that boiled potatoes are traditionally served on the side, Ina keeps it simple with a crusty sliced bread. The bread gets my vote; it adds to the rustic/French-countryside vibe of the dish, and it’s perfect for sopping up all of the incredible broth. And trust me – you won’t want to waste a single drop. The wine and Cognac make magic in that pot, and a normally-tough cut of meat is transformed into something effortlessly tender and flavorful.

Just one more reason for me to obsess over anything-and-everything French.

Beef Bourguignon

Adapted from Ina Garten

1 tablespoon good olive oil
8 ounces bacon, diced
2 1/2 pounds chuck beef cut into 1-inch cubes
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound carrots, sliced diagonally into 1-inch chunks
2 yellow onions, sliced
2 teaspoons chopped garlic (2 cloves)
1/2 cup Cognac
1 bottle good red wine, preferably French {like a Burgundy, Bordeaux, or Pinot Noir}
1 can (2 cups) beef broth
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature, divided
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 pound frozen whole onions {I forgot to buy these, and omitted – but I’m sure they would have been wonderful}
1 pound fresh mushrooms – stems discarded, caps thickly sliced

For serving:

Country bread or Sourdough, toasted or grilled and rubbed with garlic clove
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley, optional

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F.

Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven. Add the bacon and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is lightly browned. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon to a large plate.

Dry the beef cubes with paper towels and then sprinkle them with salt and pepper. In batches in single layers, sear the beef in the hot oil for 3 to 5 minutes, turning to brown on all sides. Remove the seared cubes to the plate with the bacon and continue searing until all the beef is browned. Set aside.

Toss the carrots, and onions, 1 tablespoon of salt and 2 teaspoons of pepper in the fat in the pan and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the Cognac, stand back, and ignite with a match to burn off the alcohol {I’d never done this – so fun! Nothing to be afraid of – just put the match near the pot and it will flame up for a minute or so and then go out on its own}. Put the meat and bacon back into the pot with the juices. Add the bottle of wine plus enough beef broth to almost cover the meat. Add the tomato paste and thyme. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and place it in the oven for about 1 1/4 hours or until the meat and vegetables are very tender when pierced with a fork.

Combine 2 tablespoons of butter and the flour with a fork and stir into the stew. Add the frozen onions. Sauté the mushrooms in 2 tablespoons of butter for 10 minutes until lightly browned and then add to the stew. Bring the stew to a boil on top of the stove, then lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Season to taste.

To serve, toast the bread in the toaster or oven. Rub each slice on 1 side with a cut clove of garlic. For each serving, spoon the stew over a slice of bread and sprinkle with parsley.

blue cheese + red potato tart.

January 19, 2011 in Dinner Party Worthy, On the Side with 4 Comments

I’m a meat and potatoes kind of girl.

But – if you don’t mind, I’d like a filet, please. Perfectly-seared, with a tender middle of the darkest pink. And while mashed potatoes are fine for Thanksgiving, I prefer something with a bit more personality. With cheese – yes, blue cheese! Wrap it all up in a buttery crust, and now you’ve got something that serves just as beautifully as it tastes.

There are few things I love more than a good savory tart, and this one is just about as simple as it gets. The filling is made of just four ingredients – along with a sprinkling of salt and fresh herbs – and when paired with a simple green salad, it’s really a meal in itself. I love that it’s hearty yet elegant, and easily adaptable; you could switch up the cheese or use herbs of your choice, or do as Gourmet initially suggested and make individual tartlets – which is totally my plan for next time.

Blue Cheese + Red Potato Tart

From Smitten Kitchen, adapted from Gourmet

1 Savory Tart Shell, below, or recipe of your choice, in a 9-inch tart pan
1 pound small red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 cup heavy cream
1 large egg yolk
1/4 pound blue cheese, crumbled (about 3/4 cup)
1 tablespoons finely chopped herb or herbs of your choice {I used a mixture of thyme and rosemary}
Kosher or sea salt for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 350°F. In a medium saucepan, cover potato slices with water by two inches. Simmer, uncovered, until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain. If necessary, pat potatoes dry with towels.

Arrange potato slices, overlapping slightly, in concentric circles around the tart pan. Sprinkle blue cheese over potatoes. Whisk cream and egg yolk together and pour into tart shell, then sprinkle tart with herbs of your choice and salt.

Bake tart on a baking sheet until bubbling and golden brown, about 45 to 50 minutes. Cool in pan on rack and serve warm or cold.

Savory Tart Shell

{This is hands-down the best recipe for a savory tart shell I’ve ever made. My oven can be finicky at times and tends to burn edges too easily, but this one held up like a champ – no parbaking required!}

1 1/4 (5 1/2 ounces) cups flour
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) butter, diced
1 large egg

In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch and salt. Cut the butter in with a pastry blender, fork or two knives until it is in very tiny bits. Add one egg and mix with a fork until a dough forms. If this does not happen easily, toss it out onto a counter and knead it together. This dough is rather tough but with a little elbow grease, it does come together nicely.

This dough can also be made a food processor, or in a stand mixer, though I’ve only tried it in a food processor.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to a 12-inch circle. Place the dough in a 9-inch pie plate or tart pan and press to remove any air bubbles. Level the edges, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Proceed with filling of your choice.

crème brûlée french toast.

January 16, 2011 in Recipe Arsenal, Weekend Brunch with 6 Comments

Do you already have a recipe for french toast casserole that you can’t live without?

Good. Go get it.

Now, throw it away. Delete it from your computer, get rid of that bookmark, or – if you’re still doing it the old-school way with paper or recipe cards – toss it right in the trash. You can live without that recipe. You know why? Because this recipe eats that recipe – for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

When I learned we were doing a Wild Card this Sunday for Project Pastry Queen, I was excited. The chance to go back and pick any of the recipes we’ve missed out on along the way meant this was the perfect time to share this french toast with you. I made it for brunch on Christmas Day, and with one crunchy, creamy, sinfully rich bite, we all quickly realized that this french toast went where no other had gone before. The recipe that Daniel’s mom, Meg, had been using for years was – pun intended – toast, and so was the old Paula Deen version I’d been serving up ever since I found my way into the kitchen just a few short years ago.

You may think you’re eating dessert, and you may be right – I haven’t decided. This french toast-pseudo-bread-pudding tastes good enough to be served as that final sweet bite to end a great meal, yet it’s simply phenomenal when served for a special breakfast or brunch. The crunch of the caramelized sugar topping combined with the sweet, luscious custard in the center makes for what’s guaranteed to be the most perfect french toast you’ve ever tasted. The Challah bread no doubt plays an important role, and I think it would be equally fabulous with a touch of Grand Marnier added to the custard. I love that it can also be made in a springform pan (which you can see when you click the link below), which looks so much prettier than your standard casserole pyrex. And, as is the great part of most french toast casseroles, it can be assembled the night before, making it perfect for entertaining.

Click here for the recipe. Trust. You won’t miss your old recipe one bit.

frittata with bacon, ricotta, and greens.

January 13, 2011 in Healthy Eats, Weekend Brunch with 1 Comment

If you add greens to bacon, does that cancel it out?

I’m just kidding. I love bacon, and I don’t need anything to cancel it out.

Still – tossing greens into your breakfast does feel like a better way to start the day. I upped the health-quotient even more by using a mixture of regular eggs and egg whites, like I usually do. When I saw this recipe I was intrigued, because ricotta is something I never would have thought to use in a frittata, but I loved the result; the combination of the smoky bacon and the bitterness of the chopped greens with the mildness of the cheese worked perfectly.

Frittata with Bacon, Ricotta, and Greens

Adapted from Bon Appétit

6 ounces applewood-smoked bacon, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch pieces
4 shallots, sliced
1 bunch kale, roughly chopped or torn
1 bunch Swiss chard, roughly chopped or torn
8 large eggs
1 cup egg whites
Kosher salt
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
15 ounces part-skim ricotta cheese

Preheat oven to 400°F. Cook bacon in 12-inch-diameter ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until crisp. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour bacon drippings into bowl, leaving about 2 tablespoons drippings in the skillet. Add shallots and sauté over medium heat until golden, about 4 minutes. Add half of greens and toss until beginning to wilt, about 1 minute. Add remaining greens, sprinkle with salt, and sauté until wilted, tender, and dry, about 15 minutes.

While greens are cooking, whisk eggs and salt together in a large bowl. Stir in ricotta, leaving some clumps. When greens are done, pour egg mixture overtop. Add half the bacon and spread everything evenly in the pan. Sprinkle remaining bacon and 1/4 cup Parmesan over eggs. Allow frittata to set at edges over medium heat, about 2 minutes. Transfer to oven and bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Cut around frittata to loosen; slide out onto platter. Let cool 30 minutes. Slice into wedges and serve.

lemon meringue tarts.

January 9, 2011 in Sweets + Treats with 3 Comments

It’s that time again.

There was a chocolate cake that went where no chocolate cake had gone before. We shared a cheesecake that put your old favorite pumpkin recipe to shame. And now, it’s time for lemon meringue.

That’s right – it’s my pick for Project Pastry Queen again, and after such tremendous success with my last two choices, the stakes were high. These individual lemon meringue tarts, or more accurately – lemon-lime meringue tarts – have been staring me right in the face ever since my copy of the cookbook arrived. And not just because they grace the front cover of the book, mind you. It’s the idea of luscious, cloud-like meringue piled much too high that’s been in my head. It’s been the small, jelly-like pools of bright, citrusy curd resting upon buttery crusts brimming with nuts that have been consuming my thoughts. And the combination of such brilliant flavors and contrasting textures?

Well, suffice it to say – I just couldn’t take it anymore. I had to give into these signature tarts, or so-called by Rebecca Rather. She gives them this name because like most of her recipes and dishes, these tarts have style. Big style. Everything is bigger in Texas, so it’s no surprise that the spiky meringue tops you see here were created with the infamous go-big-or-go-home hairstyles we’ve all come to love {or love to hate} in mind.

I happen to like big hair. And I happen to love big hair on lemon meringue tarts.

Though a stand mixer and a blow-torch will make your life easier {or more fun, when it comes to the blow torch part}, you can certainly make do with a hand mixer and your broiler. The tarts are quite easy to make, despite their dramatic and awe-inducing appearance – making them perfect for a dinner party or any other time you’re baking to impress. And after months of pumpkin and chocolate, a clever little riff on classic lemon meringue may be just what the doctor ordered.

Texas Big Hairs Lemon-Lime Meringue Tarts

Recipe from Rebecca Rather, the Pastry Queen

Crust:

1 ½ cups pecans or sliced almonds
1 cup unsalted butter
1 cup powdered sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
¼ tsp salt

Lemon-Lime Curd:

10 extra-large egg yolks (reserve the egg whites for the meringue)
1 ½ cups sugar
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
Zest of 2 lemons
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Meringue:

10 extra-large egg whites, at room temperature
3 cups sugar

To make the crusts:

Preheat the oven to 350F. Arrange the pecans on a baking sheet in a single layer and toast them in the oven for 7-9 minutes, until golden brown and aromatic. (If using almond slices, toast for 5-7 minutes). Coarsely chop the pecans.

With your fingers, butter eight 4 3/8 inch, 1-cup capacity disposable foil tartlet pans {I used my Wilton tart pans}, using about 2 tablespoons softened unsalted butter total.

Using a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl on medium-high speed until fluffy. Add the vanilla, then gradually add the flour and salt and combine on low speed until incorporated. Add the nuts and mix on low speed just until they are incorporated. Form the dough into a ball – it will be sticky – and cover it with plastic wrap. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator, divide into 8 equal portions and press into the prepared pans, making sure it comes up to the top edge of the pans. If the dough sticks to your hands, dust them with flour as often as necessary.

Bake the crust about 20 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool for at least 30 minutes before filling with lemon-lime curd.

To make the curd:

Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, lime juice and zest in the top of a double boiler. Add the butter to the egg yolk mixture and whisk until melted and smooth. Cook about 40 minutes, stirring about every 15 minutes. The curd should be thick, resembling the consistency of loose custard. Transfer the warm mixture to a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap onto the surface of the curd, sealing it and leaving no air between the wrap and the curd. Refrigerate the curd for at least 4 hours and up to 3 days. For express cooling, freeze it for at least 1 hour.

To make the meringue:

Set a large, perfectly clean metal bowl over a pot of simmering water. Pour in the egg whites and sugar. Heat the egg whites and sugar while whisking constantly until the sugar melts and there are no visible grains in the meringue. Take a little meringue mixture and rub it between your fingers to make sure all sugar grains have melted. Remove the meringue from over the simmering water and whip it with a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment on low speed for 5 minutes; increase the speed to high and beat 5 minutes longer, until the meringue is stiff and shiny.

Position an oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat the broiler. To assemble the tarts, spoon the chilled lemon-lime curd into the crusts, filling them about three-quarters of the way to the top. Pile the meringue on top of the curd. Style the meringue with your fingers by plucking at it to tease the meringue into jagged spikes.

Set the tarts on the middle rack of the oven and broil until the meringue topping turns golden brown, about 1 minute. Watch the tarts closely, as they can turn from browned to burnt in a matter of seconds. (If you are using a kitchen torch {like I did!}, hold it 2 to 3 inches away from the meringue and move the flame slowly around the meringue until it is browned all over.) The tarts should be served the day they are assembled.

Note: I halved the recipe, making 4 tarts, and it came out perfectly. These babies are rich, and – you guessed it – big (!) so feel free to cut them in half for serving. Just place a butter knife in a glass of warm water and cut right through.

kiwi mojitos.

January 7, 2011 in Cocktails with 3 Comments

If you’re looking for a cocktail that will make you feel like you’ve instantly been transported to a far-off, tropical island (and who isn’t!) – I have just the thing for you.

But we’re not talking about a cloyingly sweet frozen piña colada, packed with ingredients made of who-knows-what that seem to mask any sign of real pineapple or coconut, heaven forbid. No margaritas from which the only taste you can successfully extricate is an overpowering and anything-but-natural sour mix… Or worse, José Cuervo.

Who wants a cocktail made with fresh, organic ingredients and premium liquor you can actually taste?

I do. And my guess is that you do, too. This lovely take on the mojito is everything you’d expect from the classic, and then so much more – all thanks to the crisp addition of puréed kiwifruit. You can strain the fruit, if you wish, but I happen to love those little black flecks that let you know you’re drinking a tall, or short, glass full of kiwi.

Oh – and did you know that the kiwifruit is at its seasonal peak right now? Reading this in Bon Appétit last month took me by surprise; kiwi seems like a fruit fit for summer, designated for spring at the very least.

Kiwi, in January? I’ll take it. I’ll drink it right up, as a matter of fact.

Kiwi Mojitos

6 kiwifruits, preferably organic
1 bunch mint leaves
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1 cup {or more} light rum, such as Bacardi
Sugar, and/or simple syrup
Club soda or sparkling water

Peel kiwis by cutting the ends off and then sliding a teaspoon around the edges to remove the skin. Chop 4 of the kiwifruits and purée in mini food processor; set aside. Chop 2 remaining fruits into large pieces; set aside for serving.

Add mint leaves and lime juice to a small pitcher. Top with sugar; start with 2-3 tablespoons or so if you prefer a not-so-sweet drink, and add more if you like it sweeter. Using a wooden spoon, muddle the leaves against the sides of the pitcher and stir vigorously to allow flavors to combine and meld.

Next, add the rum and puréed kiwifruit to the pitcher and give it a stir. Taste for rum and sugar, adding more of either if you’d like. You can also add simple syrup if your sugar isn’t dissolving, but I find that it will if you give it a good stir with the lime juice. Top with a pour of club soda. Pour into glasses filled with ice, and finish with remaining chopped kiwi.

Serves 4.