rainbow {seven-layer} cookies.

I’d like to be able to tell you these cookies are a breeze to make.

They’re not.

Would you believe me if I told you they’re worth it? They beat out at least 20 other cookies – rather de-licious cookies, I might add – at this year’s cookie exchange.

{Though I won’t lie – I know it has something to do with the torta. I wonder if an appetizer exchange party might be the next big thing?}

Seriously though…aren’t you proud of me for keeping my word and bringing you these lovely cookies this year? I’m not sure how much time you’ll have to make them before Christmas, because you need at least two days for these precious little gems – even if most of it is downtime.

I made a lot of notes that will help you down below within the instructions. What I can tell you is that the hardest parts of this recipe are: #1) Smoothing out the cake layers in the pan, since they are so thin – it’s not that it’s hard, it’s moreso just tedious, and #2) Cutting them without cracking the chocolate. Everything else is easy-peasy, just time consuming, and like I said – that’s mostly downtime anyway. Next time, I think I will double the recipe and use 12- x 17-inch jelly roll/baking sheets instead, which should roughly double the recipe for roughly the same amount of work. Duh, right?

As far as making the cutting easier, I’m not exactly sure where I stand. Deb of Smitten Kitchen also had a great deal of trouble with this part, and she discovered that when she froze the cookies, they cut sublimely. Now, she froze them (I’m assuming) overnight, and so they were fully frozen. I was more pressed for time and only froze them for about 1 or 2 hours. For me, I had a happier time cutting after bringing them to room temperature. So, if you do try freezing them, definitely let me know how that works out for you!

I’m curious to know if you recognize these cookies… If you’re from New York or the surrounding tri-state area, I’m *sure* you do. They’re everywhere in those parts, in those wonderful delis and bakeries that we just.don’t.have. down here. And I’m so jealous! I actually used to think these cookies were a Jewish thing, because they frequent the Jewish delis just as often, and a co-worker’s wife at my last job used to make them every Hanukkah…but they’re not Jewish, they are Italian. They are very Italian, with their lovely almond flavor (oh and hi, colors of the Italian flag) and though you can traditionally make them with apricot jam – many families traditionally use a layer of apricot over the white layer, and a layer of raspberry over the red layer – I opted to use raspberry, just because I love the flavor combination with the rich dark chocolate and almond.

So if you’ve had these cookies before, you’ll know what to expect and you’ll be especially happy with these – Daniel called him the best rainbow cookies he’d ever had – but who are we kidding? He says that about everything. I happen to think part of the beauty of these cookies is recognizing them from those  bakeries growing up and that whole nostalgia factor that comes with it. I am, however, happy to report that even if you’ve never had the pleasure of meeting these cookies, you’ll love them just the same.

Italian-Style Rainbow Cookies

Adapted from Smitten Kitchen, via Gourmet

• 4 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup sugar, divided
• 1 (7-ounce) tube almond paste
• 2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 teaspoon almond extract
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 25 drops red food coloring
• 25 drops green food coloring
• 1 (13-ounce) jar raspberry preserves, heated and strained {you can also use apricot}
• 7 ounces good bittersweet chocolate, chopped

You’ll also need: parchment or wax paper, butter for the pan, a small offset spatula, a 13- by 9-inch baking pan, and a heavy-duty stand mixer or hand-mixer.

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 13- by 9-inch baking pan and line bottom with wax paper, leaving a 2-inch overhang on 2 ends, then butter paper.

Beat whites in mixer fitted with whisk attachment at medium-high speed until they just hold stiff peaks. Add 1/4 cup sugar a little at a time, beating at high speed until whites hold stiff, slightly glossy peaks. Transfer to another bowl.

Switch to paddle attachment, then beat together almond paste and remaining 3/4 cup sugar until well blended, about 3 minutes. Add butter and beat until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add yolks and almond extract and beat until combined well, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low, then add flour and salt and mix until just combined.

Fold half of egg white mixture into almond mixture to lighten, then fold in remaining whites gently but thoroughly.

Divide batter among 3 bowls. Stir red food coloring into one and green food coloring into another, leaving the third batch plain. Set white batter aside. Chill green batter, covered. Pour red batter into prepared pan and spread evenly with offset spatula (layer will be about 1/4 inch thick).

Bake red layer 7 to 9 minutes, until just set. (It is important to undercook. They’ll look like they’re not done, but a tester does come out clean.)

Using paper overhang, transfer layer to a rack to cool. Wipe pan of any red residue, but don’t wipe away the excess butter, and line again with parchment or wax paper and butter paper. Bake white layer in prepared pan until just set. As white layer bakes, bring green batter to room temperature. Transfer white layer to a rack. Prepare pan as above, then bake green layer in same manner as before. Transfer to a rack to cool.

When all layers are cool, invert green onto a parchment or wax-paper-lined large baking sheet. Discard paper from layer and spread with half of preserves. Invert white on top of green layer, discarding paper. Spread with remaining preserves. Invert red layer on top of white layer and discard wax or parchment paper.

Cover with plastic wrap and weight with a baking pan or sheet. Chill at least 8 hours.

Remove weight and plastic wrap. Bring layers to room temperature. Melt chocolate in a double boiler or a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat. Keep chocolate over water. (Or, you can melt 3.5 ounces of chocolate at a time like I did, to ensure both layers of chocolate are exactly even.)

Quickly spread half of chocolate in a thin layer on top of cake. Chill, uncovered, until chocolate is firm, about 15 minutes. Cover with another sheet of wax paper and place another baking sheet on top, then invert cake onto sheet and remove paper. Quickly spread with remaining chocolate.

Either freeze for several hours, or allow cookies to come to room temperature before cutting. Either will help with cutting through the chocolate without it cracking (I tried freezing but only for an hour and I don’t think it was enough, but other people have had success if they are completely frozen – I found them to cut more easily at room temperature). Place a sharp chef’s knife under running hot water and then dry it. First, trim the edges. Cut lengthwise into 4 or 5 strips, depending on how big you want them. Cut strips crosswise into 3/4-inch-wide cookies, continuing to heat and dry the knife as necessary.

Makes between 5 and 6 dozen cookies. Store at room temperature in an airtight container, layered between sheets of wax paper or parchment, for up to 2 weeks. Or, freeze them for even longer!